Garden Paths and Walkways
Firm, level, free-draining paths that do not scatter gravel across the lawn or wash out on the first heavy shower.
Why reinforcement matters here
A loose gravel path is pleasant to look at and irritating to use. Stone migrates onto the borders, hollows form where people walk and the whole thing needs raking every few weeks. Confining the stone gives you the same look with a firm, even surface underfoot and no maintenance.
Where this works well
At a glance
| Sub-base | 50mm MOT Type 1, or compacted sub-grade on firm ground |
|---|---|
| Infill | Angular 10mm gravel filled level and blinded with fines for the smoothest finish |
| Typical loading | Foot traffic, wheelbarrows, wheelchairs and pushchairs |
| Permeability | Fully permeable. Normally treated as a SuDS component in a drainage strategy. |
| Design life | 25 years, subject to documented installation. |
| Material | 100% recycled polypropylene, made in the UK. |
How it goes in
- Mark out the area and excavate to the depth of your sub-base plus the grid depth plus your infill blinding.
- Lay a woven geotextile across the formation, lapping joins by at least 300mm. This stops the sub-base and the subsoil mixing.
- Lay and compact the sub-base: 50mm MOT Type 1, or compacted sub-grade on firm ground. Compact in layers rather than all at once.
- Blind the sub-base with a thin layer of grit sand and screed it level. This is what gives you a flat finished surface.
- Push-fit the grids together across the area, working from one edge. Cut around obstacles with a jigsaw or fine-tooth saw.
- Fill the cells: Angular 10mm gravel filled level and blinded with fines for the smoothest finish. Work the fill in with a stiff brush so no cell is left hollow.
- Check the finished level. Nothing should stand proud of the cell walls, and no cell should be left under-filled.
Most installations are straightforward groundwork. The grids themselves push-fit together and need no fixings, adhesive or specialist tools.
Which grid depth?
The 30mm heavy duty grid. For a gravel path it gives the firmer surface, and the higher pallet count keeps the cost down over a long run.
If you are between two options, take the heavier duty one. The cost difference across a typical project is small next to the cost of lifting and relaying a surface that was under-specified.
The mistake we see most often
Using rounded pea shingle. It looks right in the bag and rolls underfoot forever. Angular stone interlocks and stays put.
Common questions
Is it comfortable to walk on?
Yes. Filled level and blinded, it walks like a firm gravel path rather than loose stone.
Is it suitable for a wheelchair or pushchair?
Gravel-filled grids give a much firmer surface than loose stone. Fill level and blind the top for the smoothest result.
Can I curve the path?
Yes. Grids cut easily with a fine-tooth saw or a jigsaw to follow curves and awkward edges.
Do I need edging?
Not structurally, but an edge restraint gives a crisper line and stops the surrounding soil creeping in.
How wide should a garden path be?
600mm for a single person, 900mm to walk side by side or pass a wheelbarrow, 1,200mm for comfortable wheelchair use.
Can I lay it around existing planting?
Yes. Grids cut with a jigsaw or fine-tooth saw, so you can work around established roots and awkward shapes.
Ask our engineer
Questions about depths, sub-base, edging or which system fits your project? Ask below.